If you are a skincare nerd like me, chances are you’ve probably heard about the incredible skincare ingredient glycolic acid. You see skincare influencers raving about it everywhere on social media, but every now and again, you see people who misuse this ingredient and are left with a damaged skin barrier simply because they probably didn’t know the basics of glycolic acid in the first place. In this post, I will present you with an ultimate guide to glycolic acid that is not just beginner-friendly but will be helpful to anyone who wants to incorporate it into their skincare routine.
So, grab your favorite drink, get cozy, and let’s explore everything glycolic acid has to offer
Table of Contents
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is a popular member of the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) family, substances typically sourced from natural ingredients like sugar cane, though they can also be synthetically produced. It’s particularly treasured in the skincare world because of its tiny molecular size. This size lets glycolic acid dive deep into the skin’s layers, making it more effective than other AHAs with larger molecules. This deep penetration is precisely what allows glycolic acid to work wonders on the skin.
What Glycolic Acid Does For Your Skin
Glycolic acid is renowned for its ability to transform skin texture and appearance, operating through a specific biochemical mechanism. At its core, glycolic acid works by dissolving the bonds, specifically the desmosomes, that hold older, rougher, and duller skin cells attached to the surface of the skin. When these bonds are broken down, it triggers the shedding of the outermost layer of skin cells, revealing the smoother, more vibrant skin beneath. This process of accelerated exfoliation is what gives glycolic acid its reputation for brightening and revitalizing tired skin.
But the benefits of glycolic acid don’t stop at simple exfoliation. One of the most significant effects of regular glycolic acid use is its ability to stimulate collagen production. Collagen is a crucial protein in the skin that helps maintain structure and elasticity. As we age, collagen production naturally decreases, leading to wrinkles and sagging. Glycolic acid helps counteract these aging signs by signaling the skin to ramp up collagen synthesis, thereby promoting a firmer, plumper appearance. This effect not only helps reduce the visibility of existing fine lines and wrinkles but also strengthens the skin against the formation of new signs of aging.
Though primarily known for its exfoliating properties, glycolic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it can attract and hold moisture. By improving the skin’s moisture balance, glycolic acid helps keep the skin hydrated, further enhancing its smoothness and reducing the appearance of lines.
How To Use Glycolic Acid As a Beginner
Starting with glycolic acid can be a transformative addition to your skincare routine, particularly if you approach it with care and attention. For beginners, the key to successful integration lies in starting slow and understanding how your skin responds to this potent ingredient.
Choosing the Right Product: Begin your journey with glycolic acid by choosing a product with a low concentration. Typically, products containing 5-10% glycolic acid are suitable for beginners. These lower concentrations provide the benefits of glycolic acid while minimizing potential irritation.
Application Tips: When you first start using glycolic acid, apply it sparingly. A small amount goes a long way. You might want to start with applications just once or twice a week, in the evening. Night application is advised because glycolic acid can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Following up with a good sunscreen in the morning is crucial to protect your skin.
Monitoring Skin Response: Pay close attention to how your skin reacts after each application. Initial mild tingling is normal, but if you experience significant redness, burning, or irritation, it’s a sign that your skin might be too sensitive or the product is too strong for you. In such cases, you can reduce the frequency of application or switch to an even milder formulation.
Gradual Increase: As your skin gets accustomed to glycolic acid, you can slowly start to increase the frequency of application. For instance, if you started using it once a week, consider using it twice a week after a few weeks, observing how your skin responds. If all goes well, you can also explore products with slightly higher concentrations of glycolic acid.
Balancing Skincare: While using glycolic acid, it’s important to balance the rest of your skincare routine. Since glycolic acid is an exfoliant, ensure that you are not using other exfoliating products on the same days to avoid over-exfoliation. Additionally, integrating hydrating and soothing products, such as those containing hyaluronic acid or ceramides, can help maintain your skin’s moisture barrier and reduce potential irritation.
How To Apply Glycolic Acid
Applying glycolic acid correctly is crucial to reaping its benefits while minimizing potential irritation. Here is a straightforward guide on applying it
1. Patch Test: Before applying glycolic acid all over your face, do a patch test on a small area of your skin, like behind the ear or on the inside of your elbow. Wait 24 hours to ensure there is no adverse reaction, such as excessive redness, burning, or itching.
2. Start with a Clean Slate: Always begin with a freshly cleansed face. Use a gentle cleanser to remove any dirt, oil, and makeup so that the glycolic acid can penetrate the skin more effectively.
3. Apply Properly: If you’re using a glycolic acid toner, apply it with a cotton pad, sweeping it gently across the face, avoiding the eye and mouth areas. For serums or creams, use your fingertips to apply the product in a thin, even layer. Remember, a little goes a long way!
4. Follow with Moisturizer: After applying glycolic acid, wait a few minutes for it to absorb fully into your skin. Then, apply a hydrating moisturizer to help soothe the skin and lock in moisture, which is crucial as glycolic acid can be drying.
5. Don’t Forget Sunscreen: Glycolic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every morning to protect your skin from harmful UV rays and prevent sun damage.
Also Read: Top 9 glycolic acid serums that will give you glowing radiant skin
How Do You Get the Best Results from Glycolic Acid?
Achieving the best results from glycolic acid isn’t just about the initial application; it’s about developing a consistent, balanced skincare routine that supports your skin’s health and enhances the effects of this powerful exfoliant. Also, the use of complementary skincare, like hydrating serums and broad-spectrum sunscreens, can amplify the benefits of glycolic acid. It’s not just about applying the product; it’s about nurturing your skin throughout its transformation.
Who Shouldn’t Use Glycolic Acid
While beneficial for many, glycolic acid isn’t suitable for everyone. Its potent nature, which makes it effective in addressing several skin concerns, can also pose risks to certain skin types.
Those with Extremely Sensitive Skin: Individuals with inherently sensitive skin may find glycolic acid too harsh. This skin type can react adversely to the acid, leading to irritation, redness, and discomfort. Such reactions occur because sensitive skin’s protective barrier is more vulnerable, making it less capable of withstanding potent active ingredients like glycolic acid.
People with Rosacea: Rosacea is a chronic skin condition characterized by facial redness, swelling, and sensitive skin. Those with rosacea may experience exacerbated symptoms when using glycolic acid, as it can increase inflammation and irritation in already sensitive and reactive skin areas.
Individuals with Eczema: Eczema, or atopic dermatitis, makes the skin dry, itchy, and prone to flaking. Since glycolic acid can strip away natural oils and exacerbate dryness, it can trigger eczema flare-ups or worsen existing conditions. The removal of too many natural oils and skin cells can leave eczema-prone skin even more dry and fragile.
Those with a History of Allergic Reactions to AHAs: If you have had previous allergic reactions to alpha hydroxy acids, of which glycolic acid is a member, you should avoid them. Allergic reactions could include intense itching, redness, swelling, or rashes.
People Undergoing Certain Dermatological Treatments: Those who are already using other potent dermatological treatments, especially those involving peeling or abrasion (like retinoids, strong physical exfoliants, or other chemical peels), may need to avoid glycolic acid. Overloading the skin with multiple potent treatments can lead to over-exfoliation, increased sensitivity, and barrier damage.
Why Glycolic Acid May Not Be Working
If you’ve integrated glycolic acid into your skincare routine but aren’t observing the transformative effects you anticipated, it’s crucial to reassess your approach before discarding the product as ineffective. Several factors can affect glycolic acid’s performance, and addressing these can help you achieve the desired outcomes.
Incorrect Usage Frequency: Using glycolic acid too frequently can overwhelm your skin, leading to irritation, dryness, and a compromised skin barrier, which hinders its effectiveness. Conversely, using it too infrequently may not provide your skin with enough of the acid to make a noticeable difference. The key is to strike a balance that suits your specific skin type. For most people, starting with 2-3 times a week is optimal, adjusting based on how your skin reacts.
Wrong Concentration: If the concentration of glycolic acid in your product is too low, it might not be potent enough to provide significant benefits, especially if your skin is more tolerant or has been previously exposed to acids. On the other hand, a concentration that’s too high can cause adverse effects that counteract any positive outcomes. Review the percentage of glycolic acid in your skincare product—starting with a concentration of around 5-10% is generally recommended for most skin types.
Incompatible Skincare Combinations: Mixing glycolic acid with certain other skincare ingredients can lead to negative reactions or reduce its efficacy. For instance, combining glycolic acid with other strong exfoliants, like retinoids or vitamin C, might be too harsh, while some oils or emollients might inhibit glycolic acid’s ability to penetrate the skin effectively. Ensure your skincare routine allows each product to perform effectively, possibly by applying them at different times of the day or on alternate days.
Inadequate Skin Preparation: For glycolic acid to work effectively, it needs to be applied to clean, slightly dry skin. If your skin is not properly cleansed before applying glycolic acid, or if you apply it while your skin is still damp, the product may not absorb properly or could be diluted, diminishing its strength.
Underlying Skin Conditions: Sometimes, the lack of visible results can be due to underlying skin issues that glycolic acid cannot address. For example, deep-seated acne, hormonal imbalances, or other dermatological conditions might require treatments beyond over-the-counter products containing glycolic acid.
Unrealistic Expectations: It’s also important to have realistic expectations about glycolic acid’s capabilities. While it’s effective for exfoliation and can improve skin texture and tone, it may not drastically change severe skin conditions or reverse deep wrinkles. Results can also take time to become evident, often several weeks of consistent use.
Environmental and Lifestyle Factors: External factors like diet, stress, and sun exposure can also influence how your skin reacts to glycolic acid. High-stress levels, poor diet, and excessive sun exposure without adequate protection can all undermine the potential benefits of your skincare products, including glycolic acid.
What Can You Use With Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is a potent exfoliant and so can also lead to dryness and irritation if not used carefully. To enhance the benefits of glycolic acid and minimize potential side effects, it’s beneficial to combine it with other skincare ingredients that can hydrate, soothe, and support the skin.
1. Hydrating Ingredients:
- Hyaluronic Acid: One of the best companions for glycolic acid is hyaluronic acid, a powerful humectant that attracts and retains moisture in the skin. Using hyaluronic acid after applying glycolic acid can help replenish any moisture that was lost during the exfoliation process, thus keeping the skin plump and hydrated.
- Glycerin: Similar to hyaluronic acid, glycerin is another excellent moisturizing agent that draws water into the outer layer of the skin, helping to maintain its moisture barrier and alleviate any dryness caused by glycolic acid.
2. Soothing Components
- Aloe Vera: Known for its calming and healing properties, aloe vera is ideal for soothing the skin after applying glycolic acid. It helps reduce redness and irritation, promoting a cooling relief that is particularly beneficial for sensitive skin.
- Allantoin: This is another soothing ingredient that helps heal the skin and stimulate the growth of new tissue. It’s particularly effective in calming irritated skin after glycolic acid treatments.
3. Antioxidants
- Vitamin E: As an antioxidant, Vitamin E is crucial for protecting the skin from oxidative stress and damage while helping to nourish and repair it. It works well in conjunction with glycolic acid to enhance skin repair and hydration.
- Green Tea Extract: Rich in antioxidants, green tea extract can reduce inflammation and soothe irritated skin, making it a great addition to a skincare routine that includes glycolic acid.
4. Sun Protection
- Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen: Since glycolic acid can increase sun sensitivity, it is essential to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day to protect your skin from UV rays. This prevents sun damage and counteracts any increased risk of sunburn associated with AHA use.
5. Niacinamide
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): This versatile ingredient works well with glycolic acid by helping to strengthen the skin’s barrier, reduce inflammation, and minimize redness and hyperpigmentation. It is particularly effective for those looking to treat acne and aging signs simultaneously.
What You Should Not Use With Glycolic Acid
When incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine, it’s crucial to be mindful of what you combine it with to avoid skin irritation or damage to your skin barrier.
1. Other Exfoliating Acids
- Salicylic Acid: While combining glycolic acid (an AHA) with salicylic acid (a BHA) can be beneficial in certain contexts, such as comprehensive acne treatment, it’s generally advised to use them at different times or days to prevent over-exfoliation.
- Lactic Acid: Another AHA, lactic acid, should not be used simultaneously with glycolic acid as this combination can excessively strip the skin, leading to dehydration and increased sensitivity.
2. Retinoids
These vitamin A derivatives are powerful anti-aging and acne-treating agents. However, combining them with glycolic acid can overly irritate and dry out the skin, disrupt the skin barrier, and increase the likelihood of inflammation. If you wish to use both, consider applying them at different times (e.g., glycolic acid in the morning and retinoids at night) or on alternate days.
3. Vitamin C
While vitamin C is an excellent antioxidant, using it in conjunction with glycolic acid might lead to increased skin sensitivity and irritation because both actives have low pH levels and can destabilize each other. If using both, it’s best to apply them at different times of the day or ensure that the skin’s pH is rebalanced in between applications. You could apply the vitamin C in the morning and the glycolic acid at night.
4. Physical Exfoliants
Physical exfoliants like face scrubs or mechanical brushes can be harsh on the skin when used in combination with glycolic acid. This can lead to scratches and micro-tears in the skin, compounding irritation caused by chemical exfoliation.
5. High Concentrations of Alcohol
Astringents and toners with high alcohol content can excessively dry out the skin, and when used with glycolic acid, the potential for irritation and dryness increases significantly.
Final Take Home
As you incorporate glycolic acid into your skincare routine, remember that the key to success lies in understanding and respecting this powerful ingredient. Start slowly, monitor your skin’s reaction, and carefully choose complementary products that enhance benefits and mitigate potential side effects. Avoid combining glycolic acid with other potent actives that could over-exfoliate or irritate your skin. With a thoughtful approach, glycolic acid can be a transformative addition to your skincare routine, delivering remarkable improvements in texture, tone, and overall skin health.
See ya at the next one!
I’m Dr Janet, a medical doctor, blogger, Youtuber and a mother to two awesome kids. I help women achieve their natural hair, skincare and health goals.
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